City of Wind (Сэр сэр салхи, Lkhagvadulam Purev-Ochir, 2023)

Part way through Lkhagvadulam Purev-Ochir’s Mongolian drama City of Wind (Сэр сэр салхи), a young woman asks the hero if he’s ever felt as if he were split in two and there’s a part of him sitting somewhere else vaguely unfulfilled. It’s a feeling he might know all too well as he finds himself torn between the traditionalism of his upbringing and the pull towards the shiny consumerism of the modern city even as his school friend chuckles that he can’t wait to leave the country altogether.

The juxtaposition is evident even in the opening sequence as a figure in a shamanistic outfit referred to by others as “Grandpa Spirit” attempts to reassure an elderly man who fears that his time is near and that his son isn’t ready. The figure speaks with the ominously deep voice of an ancient deity while a young woman translates back and fore between a more archaic dialect and modern Mongolian though when the figure removes its headress the face the behind the mask is that of a teenage boy far too young to offer such rich life advice.

Now 17 and about to leave high school, Ze (Tergel Bold-Erdene) is a top student only mocked a little by his classmates over his shamanistic side hustle while clearly a favourite of their ridiculously pompous teacher who is convinced he is a future saviour Mongolia. But despite the traditionalism of his homelife, Ze dreams of living in a fancy appartment in the city and frequently takes trips to wander around the shopping mall gazing at items he could never afford as if infected with an unstoppable consumerist virus. 

The irony is that the girl he fancies wants exactly what he has, a peaceful life in the country and the security of a family home her parents having spilt up and her father living abroad in Korea. He first meets Maralaa (Nomin-Erdene Ariunbyamba) when her mother hires him to do a blessing before she has a risky heart operation. She brands him a conman and he’s hooked. Nevertheless, the more he associates with her the further he travels from steadiness of his spiritual practice. She dyes his hair which raises eyebrows at school and at home, and takes him to nightclubs in the city where the strobe lighting seems to cause him an existential confusion as if parts of himself were blinking in and out. He leaves abruptly and explains that he doesn’t think he should be there, it seems to have upset his spirit.

Little by little be begins to rebel, acting up at school and tempted away from his home but seems genuinely worried by the prospect that his spirit may really have abandoned him and that in crossing a line in his relationship with Maralaa he may have unwittingly made a choice that can’t be reversed. Lkhagvadulam Purev-Ochir deftly scans the changing nature of Mongolian society in panning over the somewhat rundown area in which Ze lives where yurts are mingled with more modern-looking bungalows and neighbours are treated as members of an extended family. A Soviet-era mural peers down at Maralaa and Ze as they overlook the city with its myriad high rise buildings and discuss their ironically contrasting dreams for past and future respectively.

Ze’s teacher views him as a future CEO who will one day save Mongolia through his economic acumen, though it seems like he may end up rebuilding the nation in a different, perhaps more literal way. Despite his adventures in modernity he comes to understand the value of his gift which lies in his ability to provide comfort to those around him along with a sense of continuity and spirituality that anchors them in their ever changing world. Suburban setting aside, Lkhagvadulam Purev-Ochir captures a sense of beauty and serenity in the landscape through the snowcapped vistas that lie in front of Ze in the midst of his confusion as a young man torn in two, one looking toward the future with an irrepressible yearning, and the other towards the warmth and reassurance of the past while perhaps like his nation still floundering for balance and direction but always supported by the gentle love of those around him content to let him find his own way back to wherever it is he’s supposed to be.


City of Wind screened as part of this year’s Osaka Asian Film Festival.